In Part I (http://papermint-designs.com/community/node/331) we discussed how to attach an EEPROM to our cape. Now we will see how to fill the EEPROM with useful data.
We've already seen how to write data in our EEPROM (see http://papermint-designs.com/community/node/331). Now, we need to know which data we have to write. That's easy, cape EEPROMs have to follow the format described in the System Reference Manual. Specifically in section 8.2.4 EEPROM Data Format.
Our link selection for week 31 to amuse your weekend!
We want to learn how to build BegleBone capes and in this series of post we will be writing about our findings and how we built the NULLCape. You are right, that is the very minimum cape which actually does nothing.
Good question. Yes, sure you already now, but just in case you are really, really new to the BeagleBone or you've got yours as a present you had never ever hear of it.
A cape is just an expansion board for the BeagleBone. The BeagleBone provides two headers on its sides with lots of signals and interfaces, however you normally need something else to be able to attach your peripherals to this connectors. In the simpler case some wires and a platform to mechanically keep your peripheral and in the most complex case some support circuitry in order to do whatever you want to do.
Reading for the weekend... a bit late this time.
Aireal. Disney Haptic Device
The usual links to have fun during the weekend (BeableBone, Raspberry Pi, Arduino,...). I never manage to do anything with them, but maybe you can.
Have you ever thought about building your own phone?... I have and these are some links with interesting projects others had already made.
Via Hackaday an Arduino based phone
So, here some interesting things I had found during the week and that hopefully I could take a better look during the weekend. Interesting projects, BeagleBone, Raspberry Pi, Arts, new stuff, unknown stuff...
Update of the Novena laptop. A very interesting project about building your own ARM laptop powered by an FPGA
Amazing distributed, re-configurable drones concept.
Want to know how does an airback work?
How to build your own plexiglass component drawers
The BeagleBone Black arrived a couple days ago. I haven't manage to do anything useful yet and, certainly, that will take some time. However I would like to share my first impression about this board... and a couple of pictures
This site has been running for a while offering people user accounts to participate with comments to blog and forum entries. The idea was to provide further features in case people become more participative however, during all those years we had just got spam and a bunch of comments from anonymous users.
So, we had decided to stop these services and block current users accounts as for June the 8th. As far as we know there is no user content stored in the site but be free to get in contact with us for any further query.
The Papermint Designs Community
Finally I decided to order a BeagleBone Black. I'm looking forward to try it and compare to the other boards I already have. Specially the Raspberry Pi because of the similar price tag. Looking at the specs, there are a lot of interesting features provided by this BBB not easily available on, for example, the Raspberry Pi, or an Arduino. Most of them have been there for a while on more expensive boards like BeagleBoard or Pandaboard but... Having access to this features on a so cheap device is exciting and opens wide the options to learn about technology.
These are the features I'm talking about:
Recently I had the need to produce time-lapse videos for very long periods of time. That is not a big deal when you can use a nearby power source, but I would like to have an autonomous time-lapse camera that can run several hours. So I decided to build it with my Raspberry Pi.
Recently (actually almost one month ago :), I had to power several devices (three different units) using one of those battery packs with an USB output (http://papermint-designs.com/community/node/289). The easiest way to do that is to power a USB hub with your battery pack and then use the hub to provide power to all other devices. That will work OK as far as the current needed by your devices fits the output of the USB hub (around 100 mA).
Some weeks ago I had to show a set of images in something you can "wear" and that sounded as a good opportunity to play a bit with my Raspberry Pi. The first solution (out of three :) I come out with was to convert the images into a big PDF file (thanks ImageMagick) and then use xpdf cool "-remote" flag to navigate the pictures. Do not know about -remote?... Type "
This is a picoFlamingo minor intermediate release (the second release candidate). Source code is available from the project website:
This release includes some clean up but the main addition is preliminary support for Raspberry Pi, and preliminary means some imitations.
Recently I acquired a couple of HDMI 2 VGA converters. I'm interested on interfacing my small boards to VGA devices and, as many of us already know, finding a working one is a trial and error process. So here are my results and I hope may be useful for somebody else.
I've got two different models (powered and unpowered) and tested them with my HDMI enabled boards (BeagleBoard, PandaBoard and Raspberry Pi). These are the links to the devices in case you are interested.
It took more than 5 month to get our Raspberry pi. It finally arrived this morning. Most of the enthusiasm was gone weeks ago, but anyhow we had to check the board. The initial plan is to port picoFlamingo (http://papermint-designs.com/picoflamingo) to work on the Rpi, but I do not think that anything will happen before Xmas break. Some stuff for PandaBoard needs to be finished first.
Anyhow, a couple of mandatory pictures for new devices.